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Buisson-Charles

Traversing the labyrinthine streets of Meursault you soon get to know that this commune makes a lot of wine and has a lot of producers. Finding the best of them can be a frustrating process such is the diversity of style and commitment to the quality. Buisson-Charles (not to be confused with the 4000 other iterations of the Buissons that inhabit the parish) is one to put front and center as one where you know you will get quality and consistency.

They've been knocking on the door of the top echelon of Meursault producers for some years now. , sometimes I think just having the name Buisson can lead to some confusion given the number you'll find in the producing ranks in this part of the world but this one you need to be aware

The domaine is 6 hectares, four of which are in Meursault and the remainder spread across communes, the most notable of which Volnay and Pommard. The domaine is run by Michael Buisson's daughter Catherine and her husband Patrick Essa (also well-known for his wine blogging) and more recently their son Louis.

The vineyards boast vine ages ranging between 40 and 100 years and while not certified organic, no herbicides or pesticides are used. The fermentation is conventional, new oak percentages vary as the vintage and cru demand and there is no battonage. Simple, simple with the aim to be at neither end of the current Meursault style wars - lean or fat. Rather, the wines hold excellent flavour presence but are railed in by good buffering acidity. Goldilocks Meursault! MICHAEL MCNAMARA